Source: Benjamin Rand, ed., The Life, Unpublished Letters, and Philosophical
Regimen of Anthony, Earl of Shaftesbury (London and New York: Macmillan,
1900). Transcribed by Brian Bailey.
Hamburg, May 3rd, 1689.
My Lord, -- The hardships
I have suffered in a terrible German journey of almost two months, with
the respite of only a few days, might have been much more tolerable if
in that time I could have had occasions to have eased myself by that satisfaction
and real pleasure which, in my assurance that be every letter I create
it to your lordship and my mother, I receive myself in so great measure
when I write. But nothing that was ever can be more justly called
intolerable than the condition during all that time I was in; when so entirely
cut off from all correspondence that I had not left me an active part in
it. Nor could I more know how to give your lordship and my mother
news of myself than I knew how to get it of yourselves, although at Vienna
I wrote, being told I had a chance. But I fear it is almost as impossible
that a letter should go thence, as it is absolutely that it should go from
any other of the parts of Germany I passed through, without the help of
a correspondent in Holland or Flanders to receive them there, such as your
lordship knows by my former letters has been unprovided, having no other
but him in France, through whose hands was the only way though of for the
convenience of letters, when these late revolutions were unexpected, and
when only I did not dream of the passage of France being blocked up for
me in my return. It should have been the cause of my visiting another,
and so large a portion of Europe, and by the necessity I should find myself
in of going back through a great part of Germany, I should have been engaged
to have made a journey through the heart of that country. A journey
so frightful in the very idea that, as greatly as my curiosity is raised,
and my desires frown towards my improvement in the knowledge of mankind,
of the variety of nature in its other works, and of more of the countries
of these nearer parts of our world, yet I confess I was often so daunted
at the object (such as it was set out to me by those whom by my experience
I could now justify to have spoken without hyperbole), voluntarily I believe,
indeed, I should have hardly embraced the resolution, not though the reward
that was before my eyes for what I should undergo were the sight of more
of the most famous cities, the seats of the great actions of the late ages,
of countries productive of so many rarities, of that empire whose constitution
has made it formerly in the united force of its princes so formidable,
and of more courts, and those the most considerable of Europe. But
now, thank heavens, first for the cause of this last and greatest piece
of my travel, our late purge from those promoters of the interest that
was to have enslaved us to the horridest of all religions and to the service
of the usurpations and treacheries of that neighbouring crown that has
aimed so long at the subjection of all Europe. I would have gone
as far as round the world out of my way (although to have been without
the profit of it) to have found at my return my country freed from such
a distemper that had so long hung about it and had go so fast hold.
In the next place am I pleased that since by this happy occasion that made
France too hot for us, the intended course of my return by Marseilles and
Toulon along the southern parts of that country, and so up the river Loire,
was cut off, and that my way home was through Germany, that I made a bold
sally into the body of the country, with the resolution not to go so far
through it as I should have been obliged without seeing what was of worth
in it. So making my compass but a little wider, I saw of Germany
what ought to be seen. If your lordship has received my letter from
Vienna, you have heard of my journey from Venice thither, and what remarks
I could give your lordship in such a piece of paper. I was very happy
in the advantage I had to be there just before the opening of the campaigns,
when all the great men and officers in the Emperor’s service were there
met from all parts to advise and to receive instructions for the management
of the war, the separation of their commands, and the division of the forces
between Hungary and the Rhine. I stayed there two days more than
the time I had allotted for that court, and except for the mourning that
I was forced to make, which they were there very deep, the civilities I
had there would have tempted me to have stayed longer. There is no
need one finds of the language of the country, French and Latin being so
much known and used, but especially the first, and Italian is spoken from
the Emperor down to the guards. I left Vienna the 19th of April,
new style; since then I have passed through a long tract of countries that
have afforded me such variety of scenes that I will not attempt to make
your lordship and description of here, especially since I hope so soon
to be with you. I will content myself to tell your lordship only
that I passed through the rest of Austria, and also through Moravia, a
fine country, but that bears such marks of a friend as one would hardly
distinguish from those that an enemy leaves behind him, and even as bad
a one as the Turk or the Tartar, but it seems there is little difference
‘twixt them and the Poles whether a country has them as a friend or enemy
if they but come within it. Here it was that the Polish army passed
and repassed in their return from the succour of Vienna, where they did
no other service but to help off with the biggest part of the plunder,
and then quarrel that they got no more. We partook in the sufferance
of these poor people, whom they spared nothing to but their lives on their
return, for from linen, bedding, and besteads to knives and trenchers there
was nothing (since they spoiled or carried off all) left renewed in all
that country that bears resemblance of nay such thing. As for bedding
or linen, most of the other countries we passed afterwards were never so
happy as to have had them. And, indeed, for our lying we had been
pretty well weaned from beds before we got to Vienna, but afterwards clean
straw grew a delicacy, and we were contented in a seven or eight days’
journey every night to lie promiscuously among the rest of the creation,
the tame beasts of cottage; and I assure my lord, when a barn or a cock-loft
was found for our night’s lodging, we thought ourselves fortunate that
night. Out of Moravia we went into the kingdom of Bohemia, and stayed
at Prague two days. This is one of the biggest cities I ever saw.
The country is a mighty fine one, a rich soil and full of silver and copper
mines, some of which they still work, but with pains and expense little
more than equivalent. I need not describe to your lordship how miserable
the people are, after I tell you the number of Jesuits that are amongst
them. In Prague they reckon about 2000. I leave your lordship
to reflect on the condition of this poor place under this swarm of such
vermin, by the trial we have had lately of a few of them only amongst us.
Your lordship may imagine, perhaps, the ill-condition we had been in if
fallen into their hands, for this country was their conquest from an established
strict profession of the pure Protestant religion. From Bohemia we
went to Dresden, but the Elector had come to take the waters and baths,
we went thither first, and from thence we came to Dresden, in Saxony, which
belongs to that Elector, and one of the prettiest towns I ever saw, in
the fineness of its situation and the gentleness of its building.
The palace afforded me noble sights. But it is for Berlin, the Elector
of Brandenburg’s Court, that since I have spoken of places I should, speaking
rather but a word on all the rest, reserved a side for this, where greatness
and goodness meet to such a degree in the persons of the Elector and his
Princess, where, with so much policy, power, martial discipline, and temper,
and amidst such splendour and magnificence, there reigns so much justice,
sincerity, and virtue, in a manner I thought unknown at a Court.
It may very well, indeed, come into competition with any Court of Europe
after Versailles for state and majesty; for the extent of his dominions
and the number of his forces are as great as those of some crowned heads.
The countries that the Emperor possessed were esteemed not more considerable
than his before these late conquests in Hungary. The troops of the
Elector are certainly the best soldiers in the Empire. Nor was it
without malice that they were so exposed at the siege of Buda; and there
was more in it than the common politics of throwing the greatest dangers
on allies. These were Protestants and such as now they find zealous
for the interest of their fellows. They have been instrumental in
our delivery by their union with our King when Prince of Orange, who had
in his service some of their best men, that were lent him for the glorious
expedition. They have generously broken with the French without hearing
of any propositions for their private interest and advantage. They
have already this year had an encounter, in which they cut off handsomely
eight or nine hundred, a beginning that I hope will soon be followed by
more considerable advantages when England is able to do its part on the
common enemy. The Elector was extremely kind to me. He had
me at his table with him the three days which he kept me there above the
single day I had designed for the place, because resolved to redouble my
pace. This was because our reports were that there would be a dispute
yet on our continent, which I should worry to be absent from now so near
home if it should happen, as God prevent, and which I am now satisfied
will not be, nor the dispute so long in Ireland, till I arrive in my country,
as I am coming with all speed, and hope to be there in twelve days.
I was persuaded to wait here one post by the assurance that I should hear
it then confirmed that a convoy of two or three men-of-war were set sail
for this place, which I should have embraced as a happy occasion: and might
have set me in four or five days from hence in England with safety, through
the seas that are not yet cleared of the French pirates.
To-morrow I go for
Amsterdam. It will be, in spite of my teeth, an eight days journey.
When I am there I have but a little arm of sea to cross and I am with your
lordship. I am forced, notwithstanding the leisure I have had to
write this long letter, to end abruptly, for my time has betrayed me.
So let me only entreat your lordship and my mother, with my usual fervency,
to believe that still, with all love, sincerity, and affection, I
am, and must be to my last breath, your dutiful son,
A. ASHLEY