[1617]. – Description of the People and Country of Scotland, and of the Reception of James I. in that Country.1

Source:  Report on the Manuscripts of Lord Middleton, Preserved at Wollaton Hall, Nottinghamshire.  Published for H. M. Stationery Off., printed by the Hereford times limited, 1911.  Transcribed by Carrie Gross.
 
 

         “First for the country, I must confesse it is too good for those that inhabit it, and too bad for others to be at the charge of conqueringe it.  The ayre might be wholesome but for the stinkeinge people that lyve in it, and the ground might be made fruitfull had they witt to manure it.  Theire beastes generallye are smale (women only excepted), of which sorte there are noe greater in the world.  There is greate stoare of fowell, as foule houses, fowle lynnen, fowle dishes and pottes, fowle tranchers and napkins, fowle sheetes and shirtes, with which sorte of fowle wee had liked to fare as the children of Israell did with their fowle in the wilderness.  They have greate store of fish too and good for those that can eat it rawe, but if it come once into theire hands, it is presently three days oulde.  For theire butter and cheese, I’le not meddle with it att this tyme, nor noe man at anye tyme that loves his lyfe.  They have likewsise greate store of deere, but they are so farre from the places where I have yet beene as I had rather believe it then goe to disprove it:  I confesse all the deere I mett with was deere lodgeinge, deare horsemeate, deare tobacco and English beere.  As for fruite, for their grandma Eve’s sake they never planted anye.  And for ther trees, had Christ beene betrayed in this countrey, as doubtless he should have beene had he come as a straunger amongest them, Judas had sooner founde the grace of repentaunce then a tree to hang him selfe on.  They have many hills wherein they tell men there is much treasure, but they shew none of it.  Nature hath only discovered unto them some mynes of coales to shew to what end shee created them.  I see little grasse but in theire pottage, and noe flowers but such as modestye forbids me name.  The thistle was not given them for noughte, for it is the fairest flower in theire garland.  The word ‘hay’ is heathen Greeke to them, neither man nor beast knows what it means.  Corne is reasonable plentifull at this tyme, for since they harde of the king’s comeinge, it hath been as unlawfull for the comon people to eate wheate as it was of old for anye but the priestes to eate of the shoebreade.  They prayed much for his comeinge, and long fasted for his welfare.  All his followers were welcome but the guarde; those they say looke lyke Pharaoh’s leane kyne and threatten a dearth where ere they come.  They would perswade the footemen that oaten cakes will make them long-winded, and the children of the Chappell they have brought to eate of them for the maintenaunce of theire voices.  They say our cookes are too sawcye, and for groomes and coachmen, they should wish them to give theire horses noe worse then they should be contented to eate themselves.  They comende the brave mindes of the pentioners and gentlemen of the chamber, who choose rather to goe to taverns then to be always eateinge of the kinges provision.  They likewise comende the yeomen and the pages of the buttrye and seller for theire retirednes and silence, in that they will heare twentye knock before they answere one.  They perswade the trumpeters that fasteinge is good for men of theire quallitye, for emptiness, say they, causeth winde, and winde makes a trumpet sounde sweetelye.  The bringinge of heralds they say was a needeles charge, for they all know his pedigree well enogh, and the herbingers might have beene spared, since the[y] brought so many bedes alonge with them and of twoe evils, since the lesser is to be chosen, they wishe the bedes may remaine with them and the poore herbingers keepe their places and doe their office as they returne.  His hangeinges they likewise desire should remaine theire as reliques allwaies to putt them in minde of His Majestie, and they promis to dispence with the woven ymages therein, but for the graven images in his new beautified chappell, they threaten to pull them downe soone after his departure and make of them a burnt offeringe to appease the indignation they imagin is conceived againste them in the brest of the Allmighty for sufferinge such idolatrie to enter their kingdome.  The organs, I thinke, will find mercye, because, as they saie, there is some affinity betwixte them and the baggepipes.  The skipper that brought the singinge men with their papisticall vestments complaines that hee hath beene much troubled with a strange singinge in his head ever since they came aboarde his shippe, for remedie whereof the pastor of the parishe hath perswaded him to sell the forfaned vessel and distribute the money amongst the faithfull brethren.
         For His Majesties entertainement I must confesse ingeniously hee was received into the parishe of Edenborrowe, for a cittie I cannot call it, with greate shoutes of joye but noe shewes of charge, for pageants they hould them idolatrous thinges and not fitt to be used in so reformed a place.  From the Castle they gave him some peeces of ordinance, which surely hee gave the Castle since hee was kinge of Englande, and att the entrance of the towne the[y] presented him with a goulden bason, which was carried before him on men’s shoulders to his place, the place, I thinke, indeede from whence it came.  They protested that yf Christ had come from heaven, Hee could [not] have beene more welcome:  I beleeve it, for His Majestie came but to sommon them to a Parliament, and Christ would hove summoned them to judgment, which they love not to heare of.  He was conveyed by the yonkers of the towne (which were some C. holbdeeres, deerely shall they rue it, in respect of the charges) to the Crosse, and soe to the High Church, where the onely bell they had stood on tiptoe to behoulde his faire face; where I must intreate you to spare him for an houre, since I confesse there I left him.
         In the meane time to report the speeches of the people concerninge his never sampled intertainement, were to make this discourse too tedious unto you, as the sermon seemed to those that [were] constrained to indure it.  After the preachment, hee was conducted by the same holbdeeres unto his palace, of the which I forbeare to speake, because it is a place sanctified by his divine Majestie, onely I wishe it had been Wallinge Wells2  for my frendes sakes that waited on him.
         To bringe the Major backe to his lodginge, who all this while accompanied His Majestie, were to much to amplifye my storye, because the gentleman lodges three stories high.
         I will onelye briefly and faithfully speake of the people, according to their degrees and qualityes.
         For the Lordes Spirituall they may well be called soe, for indeede they are neither fishe nor fleshe, but what it shall please their earthly God the Kinge to make them.  Obedience they houlde better thenn sacrifice, and therefore they make a mockerye at martyrdome, sayinge that Christ was to dye for them and not they for Him.  They will rather subscribe then surrender, and rather dispence with smalle thinges then trouble themselves with greate disputations.  They will rather acknowledge the kinge to be there head then want wherewith to pamper their bodies.  They have taken greate paines and travaile to compasse their bishoprickes and they will not lose [them] for a trifle.
         For the poore deacons whose desertes will not lift them up to dignities, all their study is to disgrace them that have gott the least degree before them, and because they cannot wryte bishop, the[y] proclaime they never read of any.  The scripture, say they, speakes of deacons and ellders, but not a worde of deans or bishops; their discourse is full of detraction, their sermons nothinge but realinge, and theire conclusions either heresie or treason; for that religion they have I confesse it is above my reache, and, God willinge, I will never stretche for it.  They christen without the crosse, marrye without a ringe, receive the sacrament without reverence, dye without repentance, and bury without divine service.  They keepe no holydaies nor acknowledge any Sainct but Sainct Andrew, who they said gott that honor by presentinge Christ with an oaten cake after His 40tie daies fast.  They saie likewise he that translated our English bible was the sonne of some maulster, because hee speakes of a miracle done with barley loaves, whereas they sweare they were oaten cakes, and no other bread of that quantity could have satisfied so many thowsand people.  They use no praier att all, for they saie it is needeles, God knows their wantes without their pratlinge, and what hee does, hee loves to doe freely.  Their Sabboth daies exercise is preachinge in the morninge, and persecutinge their backbiters after dynner.  They goe to church in the forenoone to heare the lawe and to the cragges and mountains [in the] afternoon to louse them.  They hould their nose yf you talke of b[earbaiting], and they stoppe their eares yf you speake of a plea[y].  Fornicacion they hould but a pastime, wherein man’s abilitye is aproved and the act[iv]itye or fertilitye of women discovered.  Adultery they [shake their heads at].  Theft they reale att, murder they wincke at and blasphemy they laugh att.  [They think it impossible to lose the way to Heaven if they can but leave Rome behind them.]”
 

1This scathing description of the Scotch was printed under the title of “A perfect Description of the People and Country of Scotland.  London, printed for J.S. 1659,” 12 mo., 21 pp.  it is reprinted in the “Secret History of the Court of James the First,” Edinburgh, 1811, ii. 75, and in Nicholls “Progresses of King James I.”  iii. 338.  (From information supplied by Professor Firth.)  See also “Calendar of State Papers, Domestic,” 1623-5 …  The present text is in many cases superior to that already printed, and has the merit of being derived from a contemporary MS., which seems to have been addressed to some Nottinghamshire gentleman, judging from the reference to Wallingwells … which puzzled the printers of the 1659 text.  The letter is ascribed to Sir Anthony Welldon, author of the “Court and Character of King James,” and is said to have been written during the king’s visit to Scotland in 1617.  “The piece having been found wrapped up in one of the records of the Board of Green Cloth, was traced to Sir Anthony Welldon, and led to his dismissal from Court” (Secret History, ii. 75).  The passages in brackets are supplied from the printed text.

2 The printed text reads “better walls,” but the reference is to Wallingwells, in the manor of Carlton-in-Lindrick, co. Notts.  In 1612 the possessions of Wallingwells priory were held by Humphrey Pype, but Sir Gervase Clifton, who held the manor of Carlton, had also possessions in Wallingwells.  See Thoroton, Notts, 466b, 467.

Return to Document Discovery Project